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Killis Fish - Killi Fish Care and Maintenance

Within the aquarium fish, the Killis are one of the most famous and most colorful species. They are freshwater fish, which are part of a large family in which various species are grouped. They are often mistaken for coral reef fish due to their skin colors.

NATURAL HABITAT AND GROWTH OF THE KILLIS

Killis fish, also known as “toothed carp”, are part of the Cyprinodontid family and there are a wide variety of different species scattered throughout the world. The waters of Oceania, North Asia and Northwest North America are the only regions where fish of this species will rarely be found.

Its origin takes place in tropical waters, but over time they adapted to new temperatures and river currents. They can live well in cold or intermediate climates, as well as being able to survive in unstable environments or with periods of severe droughts. Ponds, streams or reservoirs are places that suffer from very extreme climatic changes depending on whether it is dry or rainy season, but Killis fish can withstand these living conditions.

In wildlife conditions, Killis live in still or moving water and tend to prefer fresh water. Although some species have greater resistance in brackish or even salty waters.

These fish have an anatomy that simulates a cylinder and can measure between 3 and 7 cm. However, due to the great variety of varieties that exist of these fish, some species can grow larger. Their mouth is generally small and their teeth are medium. A small plain can be seen on the top of the head.

Their teeth are quite efficient at getting food because they are long, curved, and have a very sharp point. Their scales are rounded in most species and they do not usually have a chin. Due to their elongated body, they are very agile and fast swimmers. The fins can vary greatly depending on the type of species. Some have short, round fins, while others have wide, long fins.

The difference between males and females is quite evident and you can observe differences in skin tone and size. The males are larger and their skin has more varied and intense colors. In contrast, females have duller colors and grow less.

There are some exceptions to the socialization of the Killis, but in general, several females usually coexist with a dominant male. Normally, this male does not allow another of the same sex because it could threaten his supremacy.

BEHAVIOR OF THE KILLIS

Killis fish can be divided into more than 1250 different species, so it is difficult to generalize about aspects such as their character or care. They are usually very peaceful and calm, making them good candidates for a community aquarium. However, it is necessary to keep the males separate to avoid aggression. They are generally easy to care for, although some species require more care than others. It is necessary to know very well the needs of the fish that you take home because if they are not properly cared for, they could die in just a few months.

Although the body shape can vary, all have the dorsal fin on the back half of their body. Males tend to have both the dorsal and anal fins much larger than females.

Some experienced keepers keep two male Killis in the same aquarium, but it is necessary to know them and create spaces and dimensions so that both can separate their territories. Regarding fish of other species, always try to keep them separate if you do not have experience taking care of home aquariums. Females can stay together with companions of their species or other, but males do not usually tolerate company well.

A very common trait of their behavior is their great ability to jump. These are fish that can live in very small water formations and have developed good muscles to jump into deeper and safer waters. In this sense, it is very important to keep the aquarium covered to avoid unexpected jumps that endanger them. You should also keep in mind that these fish are very small, so they can jump through any small space, so you have to keep the aquarium with a secure lid.

TYPES OF KILLI

Trying to rank the Killis is very difficult. His selected breeding has created a great variety of fish and subspecies. However, science has classified these fish according to their reproduction to make this recognition easier.

ANNUAL KILLIS

These are the ones that are exposed to very intense dry seasons. They grow in puddles and small waterways that dry up when the time of drought arrives. Vegetation generally fails to survive these conditions and dies. The Killis have been able to reproduce and live in these environments and when the rainy season arrives, the water grows again. At this point, the eggs that were buried by the Killis leave the substrate and interrupt their dormant state, known as Diapause, to hatch and repopulate the space of their parents.

Because their life cycle is quite short, the larvae can develop quite quickly. After about 45 days, the Killis in this group reach their adulthood. At this point they are ready to reproduce and will begin to create their own territories. so that females are attracted and can spawn several times a day. In the same way, the new adults bury the eggs in the substrate and the eggs that have managed to be fertilized will remain dormant until their ecosystem changes and provides them with good living conditions to hatch.

Something important about this group of Killis is that their life expectancy does not usually exceed one year, but when they are in the aquarium they live a little longer. Factors such as water quality, intermediate temperatures and a diet that provides them with the nutrients they need, help this species of Killis live longer in a home aquarium.

The most common genera found in annual Killis pet stores are Austrolebias, Simpsonichthys, Cynolebias (South American) and Nothobranchius, Micropanchax (African).

NON-ANNUAL KILLIS

This type of Killis is quite different from the previous group. The conditions of life and development are quite different between the two. These species live in permanent water formations and do not suffer from droughts. However, not everything is so easy for non-annual Killis, they are fish that must overcome problems with the quality of the water where they live. This has caused them to become great jumpers and swimmers, until they reach water formations with better living conditions. In some cases, in their natural habitat they tend to suffer, for which they are forced to leave some aquatic formations to others.

This species survives because at night they are protected from heat and sunlight, so the Killis must be kept well covered so that they do not jump. Some keepers may lose their fish for this reason. If that happens, it is important to place the fish immediately in the water because they are able to be out of the aquarium for about 2 hours. This confirms the resistance of this type of fish.

Regarding reproduction, this group lays their eggs on plants, rocks, roots or any concave surface they find in the aquarium. Development is quite fast because they can hatch only a few days after spawning or hatch 2-3 weeks later. The difference with the previous group is that they take much longer to reach the adult stage of their life and it can take 5 or 6 months until they reach sexual maturity. Due to its slow growth, the living conditions in its natural habitat and the care that can be given to this species in home aquariums, non-annual Killis have a longer life expectancy and can reach between 2 and 3 years.

In this group we can find the Aphyosemion (Latin for flag tail), Aphanius, Aplocheilus, Epiplatys, Rivulus agilae and Aph Platys duboisi.

SEMIANNUAL KILLIS

This is an almost perfect match between the two previous groups. Among their living conditions, we find that they can live in small water formations such as annual Killis and in river currents such as non-annual ones. The eggs can develop both if they are submerged in water and also being buried in the substrate.

An important difference is that the incubation period is longer than the other Killis. The youngest would hatch after 21 or 30 days, but some can take up to 60 days. This causes its development to be longer than species such as the Aphyosemion. In turn, the prolonged development time makes it difficult to define sexual dysformism, making it difficult for the caregiver to know the sex of the fry. After about three months, still in their youth, the sex of these Killis can be known.

In this group, the very popular Fundulopanchax stand out, which in the beginning were known as the Fundulopanchax gardneri.

AQUARIUM PARAMETERS OF A KILLI FISH

When it comes to these fish, the keeper has to keep in mind that the Killis gather a wide variety of distinguished species and their care varies from one to another. However, we can classify their care into two large groups, those that grow in tropical forests where they develop in streams or swamps and those that grow in thick forests. These wildlife conditions cause them to flee from excessive light and require temperatures that are between 20 ° C and 23 ° C

The pH level can also vary depending on the origin of the Killis species you bring home, but their average range is 6.6 to 7.2 when they are in domestic living conditions. In the past, Irish moss peat was used that was filled with Killis fish substrate. Although this is a technique that is still used, it is necessary to take the necessary precautions because the peat could make the water too acidic. It is best to use products specially indicated for this purpose. and that can keep the pH level of the aquarium stable.

Again, the capacity of the tank will depend on the size of the Killis, but a 30 liter tank is fine for a pair of Killis. Larger species should have more space. Fish reproduction must also be taken into account because the fry will also need space.

The capacity of the urn is directly related to the water quality of the fish. The water mixes with the substrate, toxins and waste from the fish, so if there is not a good filter or enough space for the fish, the toxic agents will multiply to dangerous levels for the fish. When the water conditions are contaminated by chemicals such as ammonia -which accumulates in the bottom of the aquarium- it can cause diseases or infections that can be lethal for all the inhabitants of the aquarium. Because Killis are fast swimmers, they need a long, shallow tank. 

You can avoid gravel and sand, but most home keepers prefer to provide fish with dark gravel or peat for comfort. In the event that the Killis reproduce at the bottom of the aquarium, the gravel could damage the eggs and some may not hatch due to these conditions. Peat is more comfortable for this type of fish, but it is important that it does not have fertilizers.

AQUARIUM LIGHTING

The light that the aquarium will receive will depend on the species of Killis that will inhabit it. However, most do not usually tolerate very strong or prolonged light exposure well, so it is best to give them an aquarium in low light.

IMPORTANCE OF TEMPERATURE CONTROL

All fish, due to the conditions of their natural habitat, have a range of temperatures in which it can live. When these levels change to temperatures that are too high or too low, they can die. Fish, unlike many other beings, are unable to maintain their internal temperature. All the internal metabolic processes of your body need a specific temperature level according to each species, so they tend to move towards colder or warmer waters as needed.

These species are called poikilotherms because of their cold blood. Although fish can generate a small degree of heat, it dissipates quickly in aquatic environments. Some fish do have the ability to regulate their temperature, but this is not the case with Killis, so they need specific care in the aquarium.

The effects of reaching the critical temperature can vary depending on whether it is a low or high temperature critical point. In the minimum temperature range, fish experience a significant reduction in their vital functions. This is because their movement is greatly reduced by the temperature of the water. When the temperature is very high, a reduction in its vital functions is also observed, but increased ventilation and movement occurs due to lack of oxygen.

When the temperature limit of each species is exceeded, negative effects on behavior are immediate. The way of swimming becomes erratic and disorderly, and when the temperature is very high, there is less oxygen in the water and the fish begin to gasp. When the temperature is very low, they go to a stage of little or no movement, which is called the "anesthesia stage", where if it persists, the fish can die.

When the critical temperature situation is corrected, the fish have good life expectancies and return to their normal behavior very soon. However, when the temperature is high, the situation is more dangerous. Asphyxia and oxygen deficiency can cause internal damage severe as affectations in the gills.

It is important to keep fish and plants with shared temperature requirements in an aquarium, as disabilities can cause health problems. It is important to find out about the type of temperature that the fish need and to have the aquarium prepared for them. Changes and conditions in transport can cause fish to suffer from stress and immune weakness. If necessary, provide a separate tank for the new fish and give them time to rest before adjusting to the other fish in the tank.

AQUARIUM HEATER AND THERMOSTAT

Aquarium heaters are designed to regulate water without sudden changes in temperature. This is an essential part of caring for fish because their health can be affected to the point of death if they do not have the temperature they need. However, it is necessary to choose one that suits the particular needs of the fish and the aquarium in general.

There are many aquarium heaters, but they are always designed according to the number of liters of water that the urn can hold. So it is necessary to choose one in which its nominal power is sufficient to heat all the water. A general rule of thumb for choosing a heater is one that has 1 Watt for every liter of water. Killis usually need a space of about 30 liters to have a healthy life, so a heater of about 50 watts is fine for them.

It is also necessary to choose a model with a smooth operation that does not expel temperature shocks that can cause shock episodes in the fish. Thermostats are also important to know precisely what temperature fish are at. Many heaters have a built-in thermostat to avoid buying an extra one. However, it is recommended to have an additional thermometer to verify the exact temperature of the aquarium water.

It is important that the heater works automatically because manually adjusting the temperature is not possible for the vast majority of caregivers. Newer models have an automatic on / off function to control temperature and save energy.

Because it is an electrical part with a very defined purpose, it is important that it is completely submerged in the central part of the aquarium. Many caregivers forget that heaters, as a general rule, have a greater effect on areas near the appliance, which can lead to varying temperatures in the aquarium.

The heaters usually have cavities, so it is necessary to keep them fully submerged because some fish, especially small ones like Killis, can get trapped and die from not being able to return to the water. Remember that Killis are good jumpers so the aquarium must be completely covered and with the heater in the water.

The heaters always stay hot when in operation. When changing the water in the aquarium and washing it, it is necessary to turn off the heater and wait for it to cool down to be able to remove it and avoid burns. Whenever you remove the heater from the water it should be turned off to avoid equipment failure.

QUARANTINE AQUARIUMS

The quarantine aquarium is a fundamental element for the health of fish and not everyone gives it the importance it deserves. This aquarium helps prevent diseases and health problems for all the inhabitants of the aquarium.

Introducing new additions always presents difficulties that may be hidden. Fish, invertebrates, plants or even rocks can be the source of epidemics within the main aquarium.


A visual examination of the new specimen that is going to come into contact with the others is not enough to know its true state. In the store or on the way to it there can be many situations of cross contamination. In the worst cases, some new incorporation may be incubating some disease that does not yet show visible symptoms.

There are some specific species, such as Corydoras, that are capable of transmitting fish diseases without them suffering from symptoms. Due to all these risk factors, it is necessary to maintain an auxiliary aquarium where all new fish, plants or rocks can be quarantined for a period of time to avoid risks to other fish.

It is also important to have a quarantine aquarium to carry out individual medical treatments. In a community aquarium, all the inhabitants feed on the same water chain and the same food. It is convenient to have an auxiliary aquarium in case of antibiotic treatments and avoid that healthy fish take these doses. Maintaining the exact doses of medication in a large aquarium is more difficult and expensive, while in a quarantine aquarium with only one member it is easier to control.

QUARANTINE AQUARIUMS AND FOOD

When new recruits are kept in isolation, they allow a more detailed observation of their health status. Many diseases have noticeable symptoms on the skin, eyes or fins of fish, so this time alone is essential for a correct diagnosis.

A more detailed feeding for these species is also necessary. Remember that this new fish will live with others that are used to a specific diet, so this period of adaptation alone is very important to avoid conflicts and territorial struggles for food.

Most of the diseases that aquarium fish suffer are caused by a significant drop in their defense system. Stress, tank mates, or a change in development can make fish irritable and aggressive, so It is advisable to keep them in an aquarium where they cannot attack their companions.

Normally, when fish must adapt to a new aquarium, their diet must change to improve their defense system. Their immune systems can be weakened by the change and they need a specific diet to be ready for the continuous aquarium.

TYPES OF QUARANTINE AQUARIUMS AND NECESSARY ELEMENTS

Quarantine aquariums are very varied, they depend on the types of specimens to be kept. However, there are common elements in all of them.

Quarantine aquariums should not be running constantly and neither should you wait long enough for the bacterial strains that cause nitrification to appear. This waiting time is unnecessary when it comes to an aquarium in which medical treatments will be applied.

What must be taken into account is a previous time margin before the arrival of new fish, plants or rocks. The best way to acclimatize your fish is to fill the quarantine tank with water from the community aquarium so that the new fish get to know their new habitat. In addition, this is a good opportunity to change a percentage of the water in the main aquarium, which helps to eliminate waste and toxic materials.

The water conditions should be the same as the community aquarium. Fish are very sensitive to changes in the water, so a heater and thermometer must be installed to monitor these parameters.

A filter should also be installed to keep the water clean and some current. Optionally, water diffusers can be installed when it comes to freshwater aquariums. The lighting should be the same as the main aquarium so that the new companions get used to the photoperiod. During the first days you can keep the light off or dimly and over the days adjust it to the parameters of the main aquarium.

When the fish are just entering a new environment, it is necessary to provide them with dark vinyls in the back and planted areas of the aquarium so that they do not suffer from stress.

Quarantine aquariums are much smaller than a main aquarium, so its parameters are more unstable and difficult to control. To avoid proliferation of toxic agents, it is necessary to make constant small water changes to avoid fluctuations of dangerous toxins.

When it comes to drug administration, other fish can be affected. What's more, dosing in a quarantine aquarium is much more accurate. Fish are more competitive than we think, so it is necessary to teach new specimens to adapt to their new diet because with the presence of veteran fish that want to fight for their hierarchies, they can suffer from stress or lose their appetite. 

Although Killis do not usually eat their young, some species can. This is a natural process of control of reproduction, but if you want healthy and strong fry, a quarantine aquarium can be used until they are in the juvenile stage they can defend themselves from the other inhabitants of the aquarium.

AQUARIUM PLANTS FOR KILLIS

Maintaining the ecosystem of an aquarium is not an easy task. Bacteria reproduce easily in water and can reach dangerous levels. To help maintain the best possible living conditions for the Killis, plants help a lot. The plants helped maintain the health of the aquarium by keeping the nitrate levels produced by the amount of excrement in the aquarium under control.

Plants also function as an extra and natural source of oxygenation. Maintaining healthy oxygen levels is essential to avoid diseases and complications of the fish respiratory system. In the event that you accompany your Killis with herbivorous fish, plants are the alternative food source. 

On the other hand, fish are very sensitive animals and susceptible to stress. When fish are exposed to situations that raise stress levels, this affects their metabolism and their overall quality of life. On the other hand, plants provide barriers that prevent excessive lighting and resting spaces for fish.

Plants are essential to maintain and help control nitrogen levels. The remains of ammonium, nitrites and nitrates feed and grow using nitrogen. Nitrogen is part of the fish ecosystem, but it must be controlled with the oxygen cycle. The bacteria and fungi that produce oxygen are capable of breaking down organic nitrogen, so it is important to maintain the balance between these two compounds. As we have already seen, plants are a very important source of natural oxygen to clean the water of dangerous toxins.

The bacteria that help eliminate nitrogen are not found naturally in water, so they must be transported through oxygen. For this reason, it is recommended that the fish are not kept in a freshwater aquarium that has not been in operation for at least one month. This is the estimated time for oxygen bacteria and fungi to enter the water and be able to avoid excess toxins. This is the process known as water cycling.

A good way to speed up this process and bring the Killis into the aquarium is to make use of fast-growing aquarium plants. These can introduce a good amount of oxygen into the aquarium in a shorter period of time. This helps keep most nitrogen agents in water under control. We will talk about some plants that you can include to improve the water conditions for the Killis that are about to arrive at the aquarium or those that are already in it.

FOX TAIL

The scientific name of this plant is Ceratophyllum Demersum and it is a variety that grows quite fast and does not have excessively complex requirements. It does not need to be fed with a CO2 supplement and it does not need much lighting.

Ceratophyllum Demersum "Foxtail" aquarium plant

AMBULIA

Science has named this plant Limnophila Sessiliflora, and while it needs more light than foxtail, it is also very easy to care for and maintain. It is also a very showy variety and its leaves cover well a Killis aquarium.

Limnophila Sessiliflora “Ambulia” aquarium plant

EGERIA DENSA OR ELODEA

These are undemanding plants in their care and can live in aquariums with little or a lot of light.

Egeria Densa "Elodea" aquarium plant

ANUBIAS NANA

In their natural habitat, these plants share the same waters as the Killis, so they are a good option to recreate the natural environment in which these fish live.

Anubias Nana aquarium plant

JAVA MOSS

This is the best option for Killis species that swim fast. Its leaves are very useful for spawning and to protect females and younger Killis.

Vesicularia Dubyana "Java Moss" Aquarium Moss

CERATOPTERIS

Some species of Killis are particularly sensitive to light exposure, so these leaves can filter light very well and provide dim or dark seasons.

Ceratopteris Siliquosa Aquarium Plant

MYRIOPHYLLUM

These help create a warm environment and cover for the fish that are recently added to the aquarium. Create barriers and spaces so they can hide or take refuge while they get to know the aquarium.

Floating plants are a good option to provide shelter for the Killis. These fish need a subdued environment.

Myriophyllum sp “Guyana” Aquarium plant

HOW TO CHOOSE A KILLIS AQUARIUM FILTER?

Filters are very important for home aquariums. They are responsible for recirculating the water and eliminating toxic agents that accumulate over time and the biological activity of the aquarium inhabitants. They can also retain particles of solid materials such as plant pieces or debris

AQUARIUM FILTERS

A good filter is very important in any home aquarium. Because water flows and stays clean in natural ecosystems, it is necessary to recreate these conditions at home. The filter you choose should have at least 5 times the total water capacity of the aquarium. It is also necessary that this urn is not too large or causes excessive movement. Although Killis are good swimmers, almost all species are smaller in size, so they can suffer from hyperactivity and stress if they are in environments with too much movement.

The filters have quite homogeneous functionalities in all the models. They are responsible for capturing waste and keeping the water clean. However, the capacity, power and distribution of its parts can make some more efficient than others. Killis need filters that don't disturb the movement of the water too much and don't cause a lot of noise.

For the Killis, the best filter option is a sponge one. These are basic, but efficient because they have a sponge inside that is responsible for filtering mechanically and also has the ability to clean biological remains.

Filtering a home aquarium can be done in different ways; mechanical, biological and chemical. This is closely related to the type of filter material that the filter has.

  • Mechanical filtration. This is the way in which the coarse particles found in the aquarium are trapped in a mechanism formed by foamex sponges. The pores are of different sizes to be able to capture even the smallest materials. They are also made of perlon wool which is much thicker and stronger.
  • Biological filtration. This is the most important type of filtration because it will be responsible for eliminating toxic substances. As a product of excess biological activity, these substances remain in the water, which at low levels are not harmful to fish or plants, but when they begin to increase, they can be fatal. This mechanism works by using very porous materials such as clay that are known to be natural substances capable of converting toxic agents into less dangerous substances and that do not alter the balance of the aquarium. In order not to alter the chemical levels of the water, they are usually used neutral materials that do not alter the values ​​of the water. Biological materials are marketed in synthetic quartz and other materials.
  • Chemical filtration. This is a rare type of filtering in home aquariums, but worth knowing about, especially if you have Killis at home. It is usually used to clean the water of very specific chemical elements such as medicines. This type of filter material is also often used to level the pH or hardness levels of the water. Among the most common chemical filter materials on the market are specific activated carbon for gripping filters, acidifying peat or absorbent resins.

KILLIS FISH BREEDING AND REPRODUCTION

The reproduction of the Killis does not present major drawbacks, but some species require different methods and practices. Providing enough space, food, and good water conditions for many fish can be really tricky. It is recommended to have an aquarium with the conditions that a few fry need, rather than trying to have many young in the urn. Fingerling overpopulation can result in decreased life expectancy due to diseases and poor water conditions to which they can be exposed.

BREEDING OF ALEVINES

Keeping the eggs in a different aquarium helps to maintain greater control over the living conditions they have when they hatch. They also learn to navigate the difficulties of their environment in a safe environment and their skills are strengthened. They tend to have a stronger immune system and a more efficient swim. Another advantage of this method is that they grow very fast and reproduce again. The Killis Scriptaphyosemions species tend to be very hardy and do not usually devour their young. This is a good option to keep reproduction in home aquariums under control.

AQUARIUM CONDITIONS FOR ALEVINES

Plants are a great tool to give fry shelter as they grow. The leaves provide plenty of coverage throughout the aquarium and help the fry in their growth. The Indian Fern, Java Moss and Riccia are also a good option to keep the substrate clean. The substrate should be shallow with a gravel that acts as a shelter for the fry. Other spawning sites can be included to improve the conditions for their development. When fry are in a community aquarium, they need space to shelter from larger fish that can hurt or eat them.

At this point you can choose to bring the pair to an individual urn for the fry to develop or leave them in a community aquarium with their parents and older siblings. Some species may be more sensitive to eating their young, while others tend not to. The predatory action of this species is also important because it helps control overcrowding in the aquarium. Feeding larger fry can play an important role in the level of predation that exists in the aquarium.

Spawning plants are important for species such as Fundulopanchax nigerianus. Usually, the appearance of Killis eggs hurts to be in safe, predator-free places near the surface.

This is the best option for species that do not lay too many eggs, as it allows the keeper to keep an eye on the growth and evolution of the embryos by incubating a group of fry in the same place. This also helps reduce cannibalism and struggles for food.

It is important to note that depending on the species, Killis can spawn in different places in the aquarium. Plants are usually the ideal place, but some need to do it in the ground and need the gravel or sand to be clean. 

It is also necessary to keep the lighting in the aquarium low because some eggs are sensitive to light and could have problems with their development if they are too exposed to the lamps.

FEEDING THE KILLIS

Although there are many species of Killis fish, they are all usually small in size and can eat commercial foods in adulthood without any problem. However, when they are fry, their small body is only capable of digesting live foods such as protozoa and microworms. The eggs of Artemias Salina are also a very common type of food in the first stage of life of the Killis.

Non-annual species can eat commercial food if it is ground into small pieces so that they can reach it with their jaw after one year of life. On the other hand, the annual species grow a little more and after a month of being born they have a physical development good enough to eat commercial food.

Food requirements are also species-specific. The Nothobranchius are good for a diet containing traditional flakes, while the Austrolebias if they have difficulty eating or are inert.

Lately the production of homemade porridge has become very popular as food for fingerlings. Due to the density of these foods and their nutritional content, they can be a good way to feed them., but the contamination of the water is much greater than with any other type of commercial feeding.

DIET WITH LIVE FOODS

Killis are a carnivorous species that need protein to maintain good health. Its development is linked to the quality of its diet, so it is necessary to include live foods in its menu. In the adult stage they need this type of nutrients to reproduce, and although these are a bit more expensive, in their natural habitat these are usually their daily foods.

INFUSORIES

Killis are small fish, which prey on single-celled organs like protozoa. One good thing about this type of food is that it can be grown at home using and some decomposing plant material such as wood or an animal. The smaller species of Killis like the Nothobranchius and Epiplatys feed on these microorganisms. Paramecium is one of the most nutritious infusoria and appreciated for its high amount of vitamins and antioxidants.

VINEGAR EELS

This is a very popular food for Killis because of its size and easy care. These eels are only a few millimeters long and can be kept in a mixture of 70% vinegar and 30% water. They live very well in this water chain and do not need substrate. Many home caregivers grow this food at home because of its ease of care. They do not require much space, nor a specific feeding. This is an ideal food to feed Killis fry during their first month of life.

NAUPLIOS OF ARTEMIA

This is one of the most important live foods for a Killifish, especially if it is in its youth stage. It is a great source of protein, minerals, and vitamins. But its nutritional components are not the only ones, since has a large amount of digestive enzymes that help the development of the Killis.

This is a food that is larger and is third on the Killi food scale, but some larger species may eat brine shrimp nauplii after infusoria. Austrolebias and fundulopanchax are large Killis species that can tolerate this food well after 1 month of being born.

MICRO WORMS

Worms are a very common type of food in all home aquarium fish. They are a great source of protein and lipids, but small species like the Killis need microworms. These do not measure a millimeter in length and can be grown at home. They can be included in the diet as an alternative to Artemia Nauplii during the weeks of a killifish life.

ENQUITERAS AND GRINDAL

These are a slightly larger species of worms that can be up to 2 centimeters long. They are very nutritious, but due to their size they should only be given to young and adult Killis. They are also very easy to care for at home and do not require a lot of space to live. Enquitreas reproduce at a temperature of 19 ° C and Grindal at a temperature of 20 ° C. It is important to bear in mind that their fat content is high, so they should only be given once a week to avoid diseases such as fatty liver.

DAPHNIAS

This is a freshwater crustacean that is part of the natural food sources of the Killis in the wild. Its cultivation at home can be a bit complex because it needs a lot of space to grow, although its maintenance is not complicated. It serves as food for young and adult Killis. A pair of adult Daphnias can be brought into the aquarium two weeks before the fry hatch, so that the Daphnia nauplii serve as food for the fish in this early stage.

CALIFORNIAN WORM

This worm is one of the most common live foods for adult fish. They are also very beneficial for the different inhabitants of the user because the larvae are usually of a size similar to an adult grindal, which makes this food that can be used for adults and fingerlings.

KILLIS DISEASES

Killis are prone to the vast majority of diseases that home aquarium fish are exposed to. However, a great advantage of the Killis is that their evolutionary resistance has generated a robust and developed immune system. Next we are going to talk about the most common diseases in the Killis and their symptoms.

OODINIUM

This is a disease produced by protozoa and occurs in a form similar to "ichthy". However, the extension of this disease is not so great and the appearance of the affected fish is different. Fish skin has a small layer of a kind of velvet in reddish or yellow colors when the cause is the parasite Pisciodinium limneticum. While the color can be gray or white when it comes to the Piscinoodinium pillulare parasite.

A problem in diagnosing this disease is that this skin coloration is not as evident until the disease is in an advanced stage, so attention must be paid to the appearance of the fish and their behavior. The diagnosis can also be confused with that of Fungosis because in this the skin also presents a certain darkening when the attack of the Saprolegnia parasite is just beginning. This parasite is harbored in honey, fins and sometimes in gills.

Like Ichthyophthirius (White Point), this protozoan has in its cycle a phase of parasitism during which it is located on the skin, fins and occasionally on the gills of fish followed by a later stage of encysting during which a series of divisions. Like all parasites, this one feeds on live organic matin, being able to damage tissues or fish enzymes.

RAMPANT OR SWIMMING BLADDER

One of the most common causes of death in newly hatched fry of annual species from South America is rampant. It was thought that it was due to a classic pathology of this species, but the development in the filling of the swim bladder is the true cause of this problem for the fry. 

This is a disease that is associated with the amount of substrate the eggs have access to during their incubation process. Due to this problem, the fish cannot stabilize their swim as they should, so they begin to produce high amounts of carbon dioxide due to the muscle wasting they must do to be able to swim. As a defense mechanism, fish harbor this amount of carbon dioxide in their blood to fill the swim bladder. However, if the respiratory system becomes complicated because they need more oxygen for their daily anaerobic activity, their gills begin to fail.

Nitrate contamination, oxygen deficiency, and poor substrate quality are conditions that are also associated with the origin of the swim bladder.

FUNGI OR SAPROLEGNIASIS

Also known as fungal disease or mycosis, this condition is caused by the saprolegnia and achlya fungus. This disease usually occurs in fish that already have other health problems such as wounds on their skin. It is also associated with the hygiene of the aquarium that overloads the immune system of the fish, making them more prone to fungi present in the water.

These fungi are not usually too pathogenic, but due to the change in pH in the fish aquarium, this becomes a perfect living condition for fungi. The eyes, skin, fins, and gills can be affected by this disease..

You can see a certain white layer, similar to a cotton cloth on the skin of the fish, they tend to lose their appetite, their swimming becomes slow and they tend to stay in the darkest areas of the aquarium.

DROPSY

The origin of dropsy in aquarium fish is still unclear, but bacteria such as aeromonas and pseudomonas contribute to the appearance of this disease. The immune system is greatly weakened by these microorganisms present in the water and the fish can suffer from dropsy. If the diagnosis is made in the early stages of the disease, the prognosis is favorable, while if the disease is advanced, the fish is less likely to recover.

Among the most common symptoms of dropsy is inflammation in the belly of the Killis caused by fluid retention and the poor condition of the internal organs. Tiredness, lack of control over muscle movements, puffy eyes, yeast infections, and loss of appetite can also be observed.

ROT OF THE FINS

This is one of the most common diseases of aquarium fish, and Killis are prone to it. It is a disease caused by bacteria. This disease is usually a consequence of other diseases when the fish's world system is already weak. The main cause of this disease is the lack of care and the poor water conditions in which the Killis live.

This is usually one of the most life-threatening health complications in aquarium fish. When the disease is advanced it becomes lethal.

The main symptom of fin rot is the appearance of certain parts of the body. The fins have a shoal or reddish color accompanied by a rough and corroded texture, as if they were crumbling fins. Holes in the fins can also be observed and the fish become very inactive.

DACTYLOGYROSIS

The fungi of the Branchiomyces sanguinis group are usually the cause of this disease. It is also known as gill rot and is a very serious disease for Killis.

Unlike parasites, fungi feed on lifeless organic material and do not belong to the plant or animal kingdom. Fungi are organisms that belong to the Fungi group, and in animals they can feed on dead skin or they can be harbored in fish wounds.

This is a contagious disease that spreads quickly throughout the aquarium because it releases a kind of white material, similar to a spider web that is spread in just 48 hours to the rest of the fish in the aquarium.

Because these fungi attack the gills, fish have a lot of trouble breathing. Fish use their gills to absorb oxygen and expel CO2, but due to this disease, they cannot release and their internal organs go into a process of necrotization due to lack of oxygen and excess CO2.

Poor water conditions, accumulated organic materials, very low pH and external contamination can be the main causes of dactylogyroses.

If you look closely at the gills, you can see that they are wounded or injured. Fish often search the surface for oxygenation and have agitated breathing and swimming.

EXOPHTHALMIA

Diagnosis of this disease can present problems because its main symptom can be confused with those of other diseases such as tuberculosis or infectious ascites.

Exophthalmia occurs when there is an excessive accumulation of biological fluid inside the eye or in the eye socket. The eye is inflamed, swollen due to excess fluids produced by the body as a defense mechanism against foreign agents such as parasites, microbial agents or chemical changes in the water.

In the vast majority of animals, protective membranes are found in the eyes that hold in moisture and secrete an antiseptic fluid, but fish lack this protection.

When the water conditions are not necessary or the pH is not what the Killis require, the agents that cause exfoltamia can appear. Likewise, the accumulation of nitrites may be causing this disease.

COLUMN

This is a disease of bacterial origin and it is characterized by the lesions that appear around the mouth, as if it were a cotton flake that can also lodge on the head and on the lips.

Fish affected with columnaris lose their appetite and their swimming becomes slow and less frequent. This is a condition that can spread throughout the fish's head, ending in a lethal disease.

In general, this disease has an incubation time of 5 to 8 days and very low temperatures favor the development of this disease. Overpopulation and infrequent water changes are risk factors for this disease.

The Killis are a very varied species, but quite resistant. They are easy to care for and maintain in a beginner home aquarium. Like all fish, no matter how hardy they are, they need healthy living conditions to live and reproduce. The conditions of the water and the feeding are fundamental, reason why it is necessary to try to offer them domestic living conditions as similar as possible to those they would have in their natural habitat.

Other articles of interest may be:
How to Eliminate Aquarium Algae - Causes and Most Effective Treatments
Caridines and Neocaridines - File and Care Aquarium Prawns

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